Today was long. The afternoon alone took at least three days to get through.

Last night was warmer so I did not wake up chilly. It was ridiculously dewy though, everything just soaked. A fog hung over the water on the bay, so thick that I couldn’t see the other side in spots.

We set off around 8:20, rolling out of Frankfort. I’d been looking forward to today’s ride, remembering from last year the great views.

The first point of interest was Crystal Lake, which truly is so crystal clear (at least at the shore) that you can see each rock lining the bottom. We had fun looking at all the homes on the shore, and wondering at all the money. If I was wealthy, I’d definitely pay to wake up and have my coffee enjoying that beautiful view. I imagine you have to be very wealthy to afford that life. Although I did see one mailbox with the words “Empty Pockets” decorating it.

We followed the lake shore for several miles then cut in to the northeast, heading for the northern side of Platte Lake. At Riverside Canoe Trips we took a break, and I bought another sticker for my bike, and a Michigan sticker for my car so I can look like a real Michigander. Michigan outline window decals here are like Salt Life decals in Florida. Which is to say they are popular.

Next stop was the Empire Bluff trail, which I’ve now done three times, but it never gets old. The trail is wide and hilly, weaving through a beautiful forest of pine, ending at a high and spectacular overview of Lake Michigan and the Sleeping Bear dunes to the north.

We of course did this little hike in our cycling shoes. On the way back down, just after we’d passed an extended family taking a group photo, my right foot caught a root and I tripped. Partway through I though I was going to save it, but my left foot dragged in the sand and down I went, landing of course on my already battered right knee and right arm. Down on the ground I look back to see not only Kris and Bill reacting with shock and concern, but the family taking the photo all looking at me with surprised faces. It’s nice to have an audience for my most graceful moments. I scored a new scrape on my knee and some nice dirt for my white sun sleeve. I tries to be more observant of the path after that.

Leaving the trailhead is an awesome and steep winding road downhill into Empire. I’d been really looking forward to the next section, where a trail begins in Empire and takes you all the way into the Sleeping Bear dunes parking area. The route took us on that trail last year. Unfortunately, the published route did not use the trail, but kept us on busy M22.

This pissed me right off. It was getting hot and it was very sunny, and riding with cars zipping past us, knowing a lovely trail was available instead annoyed me greatly. All three of us knew it was there, but we were hesitant to ditch the official route for some reason. Finally, as the road and trail came very close together, we jumped through the couple feet of roadside weeds and got on the trail.

Riding on the trail was so much more pleasant and I kept wondering why they would intentionally skip this. I think I may know the answer though. Right before we got to the dunes, a family of four was approaching on bicycles, parents and two young kids. They came to a stop just as I was about to roll by, and the daughter, distracted by our presence (I assume) began to fall, pitching directly into my path. Not knowing how far she’d fall, I swerved off the pavement into the gravel. I’d slowed of course, but was still going fast enough that it felt dicey. I was glad I had my gravel bike with the wider tires.

And so it occurred to me that they were probably keeping a group of destination determined experienced riders separated from the recreational amateurs, who tend to wander the trail freely in a disorganized and not self-aware fashion. So I understood but still disliked missing a great portion of the trail. Such are the trials of life.

We stopped briefly at the dunes to refill our waters and take advantage of the indoor plumbing. I looked at the crazy people crawling up and down the massive sand dune like so many ants, no envy at all. I did the dunes last year with my friend Jen on a weekend trip to Glen Lake, and I feel I am all set for that ultra sandy experience.

It was already 12:30 and we still had miles to go before Glen Arbor, where we planned to stop for lunch, which was worrying. We’d not made good time, but the hike had taken probably 45 minutes. We’d also felt markedly slower today, for my part due to very tired legs. There also seemed to be a lot more climbing. Nothing like the steeper ascents of yesterday, but lower, longer grades.

In Glen Arbor we stopped at Boondocks, the same restaurant as last year. I ordered a Cesar salad which came with a packet of dressing instead of being blended, and on a plastic tray to boot. But, they had Oberon on tap and excellent cheese curds.

It was probably 2 o’clock by the time we left lunch, and we all knew we had a long, hot afternoon ahead of us. Glen Arbor was only the halfway point, and the hills increased in length and height as we headed for Traverse City. My seat was getting sore and the heat was full force under a cloudless sky. Time to dig deep.

There is an old schoolhouse I remember stopping at last year, and I knew the road pointed uphill after that. What I did not remember was the road between lunch and there. Although we did enjoy some nice downhills, it was overall a slow road. Much of it was freshly paved, which I was first excited for as it came into sight. It turned out to be rather rough and blacktopped, the high friction surface seeming to suck at my wider tires and the heat absolutely radiating up. I longed for my road bike and its skinny hard tires.

There was no lack of lovely scenery along the way, rolling fields with the vibrant wildflowers in bloom everywhere. Traffic was light, but we spread out, just making the pedals go around. By the time we made it to the little Solon schoolhouse we were a defeated group, and it was 4 o’clock.

Bill roused us from rest by the threat of getting passed by the e-bike lady who we saw charging up at every sag stop and so was always at the very tail end of the group. At this point I was entertaining thoughts of sagging out, which I would only do if I was sick or seriously injured, but was fun to think about. Strangely enough, the hills were actually much worse in my memory, but I was aching and underpowered, legs sore and my right shoulder screaming (I’ve injured it several times and it will never be the same). At times like this I wonder why this is my idea of a fun vacation. I’ll let you know if I figure it out one day.

And then the blessed moment came when we had climbed all the hills for the day and it was all downhill into Traverse City. At the bottom of a nice descent we hopped off onto the Leelanau Trail, leaving behind the cars for a while.

This trail took us into the city, and we carefully navigated downtown until passing into the pleasant neighborhood streets to the east. Then we were here… Mecca! Civic Center park is large, with soccer and softball fields, a paved walking path, play areas for children and a Y. It was probably 5:30 at this time, and I was done. With everything. Kris and Bill are with the bougie tent service crowd, but I’m in the cheap seats, so I found my bags and set up my still soaked tent under the pines of the campsite. I’m just a couple of doors down from Kris though.

In what we considered a new low, we ate dinner in our cycling clothes, needing to put off showers lest we miss dinner, which closes at 7pm. After eating we got cleaned up and headed back to the tents. They are quite a distance apart, the Y building with where the locker rooms and meal area is on the opposite side of the park.

I was bound and determined to do laundry, so Kris and I walked to a laundromat 2/10ths of a mile away to take care of that task, which Bill made the necessary party store run for the group. We then returned to camp, secure in the knowledge that I was ready for the rest of the tour, at least clothing-wise.

We finally sat down outside of Kris’ tent to chat and enjoy our beverages. I was exhausted and glad to be stopped.

Bill and Kris are riding a route of Bill’s design tomorrow, but I’m staying off the bike. I’ll sleep in and have a leisurely day, probably to wander closer to downtown for lunch. My compatriots plan to return early afternoon, then we’ll all head out for some layover day adventure for dinner and drinks.

Today was a challenge for a variety of reasons, and I’m tempted to be disappointed in myself for what feel a like terrible performance. Seeing so many others who are faster, leaner, and stronger makes me wonder what I’m even doing, but we can’t all be expected to be awesome all the time. I do enjoy cycling travel and will keep riding, hopefully getting better with every ride. I know when I look back that I’ve already improved a lot since I began doing these trips in 2017. I have to be comfortable with myself and where I am, and focus on enjoying the ride and the companionship.