Shoreline West Day 6 – Charlevoix to Petosky

I find myself saying this a lot these days, but I can’t believe it’s almost over. Today was the penultimate day of riding, tonight the last night in camp. I’ve been talking about doing this ride forever, now it’s done.

Today was another great day, except for about a half hour of it. This morning was cool and bright, and by the time I’d packed my gear I was warm enough to take off the sweatshirt. We rolled out at the standard 8:20, knowing we didn’t have much pressure as our route was only 39 miles. We chose the longer route that took us over to Boyne City before heading back west to Petosky.

The route bypassed downtown Charlevoix, so it was good we made it there yesterday. We rolled out of the school between the beautiful greens of the Belvedere Golf Club, and found our way to Ferry Avenue. This took us south and east to Ironton, where we caught the $1, probably 8-minute ride on the Ironton Ferry, which got us across the skinny neck of the South Arm of Lake Charlevoix.

We soon reached the shore of the lake and followed it along all the way into Boyne City. We had beautiful views of the lake on the left, with kayakers and skiers out on the glistening water, and the ever present several million dollar homes on the right. So much to look at.

The roads were flat after the climb out of the ferry, and we reached Boyne City in good spirits with time to enjoy. So we found a cafe and got coffees to go, and took them to a bench overlooking the lake.

Thus fueled, we headed back out, now north and west up the other shore of the lake. After Horton Bay it was off to the Lake Michigan side again.

At Bayshore, we rode what I feel is the quintessential Michigan road. It was obviously a paved road at one point in its life, but calling it paved now is being far too generous. It’s as though somewhere along the line the local maintenance authority said to tell with it and never touched it again. Down the center I could still see the painted line in places, but the rest was chunks of asphalt, potholes, and gravel. It was time for my heavy, steel, wide-tired gravel bike to shine. My choice was vindicated! For a mile or two.

This picture does not accurately portray the gnarly reality of this road.

Out of Bayshore we picked up the Little Traverse Wheelway, a paved trail that parallels US 31 and features this nifty little tunnel.

Unfortunately, the good times never last, and at the same point where we had to abandon the trail last year we ran into the same sad sign.

I heard later that part of the trail has been out for more than two years. Erosion, is what the sign said.

This began a tense part of the ride for me as we approached the busy Petosky area. Lots of traffic on the albeit wide-shouldered 31, and then just general congestion when we were able to get back on the Wheelway.

But, not long after we got back on the trail, I wanted to stop to take a picture of the storm clouds over the bay, and we got the best shot of the three of us of the trip.

At this point we were looking for lunch, and decided to seek out the Palette Bistro, which was described on Google Maps as a Mediterranean cafe. Bill had enthusiastic visions of baba ghanoush with a view of the bay, but after we sat down with the menus it became clear that this was not that kind of Mediterranean place. We did get a great table with a nice view, and after making peace with the menu, it was a wonderful lunch. We started with baked feta to share, and I had a Rosé flight. For my main I had quiche on a bed of mixed greens, and an amazing crème brûlée to finish. A bit of a pricey lunch but it was so worth it.

And we did pay for this little luxury, because just as we started suiting back up for the road to the middle school, it started raining. We could have missed the 15 minute ride in the rain, and (for me) shaking out my gear in a hard drizzle, but we didn’t and no regrets. Bill and Kris came over right after parking their bikes and helped me get my tent up and rain fly on in just a couple of minutes, which was so awesome and helpful.

After that it was showers and dinner, with a couple of hours to spare for camp camaraderie. This being the last night, many people were out talking and laughing in groups, or playing cornhole. My group was talking about next year’s rides (Bon Ton Roulet and Dalmac, possibly.)

We’re setting out stupid early tomorrow (6:30), because the route is long for the last day, and Bill and Kris need to get on the road for Iowa and Ohio, respectively.

Tomorrow is 54 miles to Mackinaw City through some of my favorite stretches of road from last year, Harbor Springs and the Tunnel of Trees. I really can’t wait.

So this is my last night in this tent for a while, and I hope it’s a sound one. We may get a little more rain tonight, but I’m snug in my tent for the now, ready to rest well!

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